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t1205.txt
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1994-09-13
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1205 FRAMING TOOLS
Measuring and layout tools
Pros call framing rough carpentry, because with construction that will be hidden away behind
finish materials, appearances don't matter much. But this doesn't mean you can let yourself be
sloppy or imprecise about framing work - unless all elements are plumb - perfectly vertical - and
level - perfectly horizontal - and square - at exact right angles to one another. No amount of
cosmetic surgery will conceal your imperfect handiwork.
Few if any carpentry tools see more action than the flexible steel tape. A 12- or 25-foot version
with a lock button and plastic coating on the tape itself works well for framing projects. Better
ones highlight markings at 1-foot and 16-inch increments, useful for laying out framing members
typically spaced 16 and 24 inches from center to center.
Use a framing square to square up almost anything, to check stud spacings quickly, even to make
rafter cuts. Good ones also have a wealth of reference data engraved on their blades, everything
from wood screw sizes to lumber dimensions. Square up smaller pieces and mark 45-degree
angles with a combination square. Look for one with a built-in level and scriber.
Plumb and level framing components with a carpenter's level. Buy a 28- or 36-inch model. It
should have at least three vials, one in the center for checking level and one near each end for
determining if a member is plumb. Some also read 45-degree inclinations. Snap long, straight
lines with a chalk line. This tool also doubles as a plumb bob to establish true vertical lines.
Cutting tools
If you're looking for a workout, cut studs and other framing pieces to length with a handsaw. A
26-inch, 8-point crosscut saw will handle most general-purpose cutting chores.
A circular saw greatly speeds cuts along, and makes them more accurately than a handsaw. For
framing work, equip yours with a combination blade.
A retractable-blade utility knife handles cutting chores that require a razor-sharp blade. It can
also make more precise marks than an ordinary pencil. If you'll be working with metal studs, cut
them to length with tin snips or aviation snips. Aviation snips, which have a compound leverage
action, make cleaner and easier cuts.
Nailing and prying tools
Select a hammer with a heft and handle that feels comfortable to you. A 16-ounce curved- claw
hammer should be among your first tool purchases. Augment it with a 22-ounce straight-claw
framing hammer. After some practice with the framing hammer you'll find you can drive a 12-
penny nail with three well-directed blows. Its straight claw excels at prying boards apart.
A flat pry bar has thinner claws than a hammer, so you can slip or drive it into spots that are too
tight for a hammer's claw. You can pull nails with either end of a flat pry bar. Use a crowbar for
bigger prying jobs. It has a hooked claw at one end for pulling large nails and a beveled chisel at
the other. A crowbar comes in especially handy for demolition work and for levering framing
members into alignment.